My car failed MOT (1 item no advisories) on the lower arm nearside balljoint. I cannot even remember if I checked it out when I had it off when I did the wheel bearing earlier in the year. They are difficult to check for freeplay when car on ground. Obviously on the MOT test, the shaking road simulation easily would show this or any bushes etc up easily.
You can just change the balljoint itself, but the price of them compared to the whole lower arm; its pointless. Especially as the lower arm bushes probably may not last that much longer.
I spent the afternoon in the cold doing it, before it snowed. I would do a write up, but see Autodoc has done, with pics etc and a video. However they seemed to have different torque figures from Nissan and Haynes manual. I know most people do not bother torquing many of these bits, but I do.
Points to be aware of. The anti-roll bar drop links at the top to the suspension strut. Mine was 18mm nuts, the back of it to stop it spinning, you place a 17mm open end spanner.
It is easier to remove both drop links from the suspension, this way you can twist the anti roll bar up or down so you can untighten one of the 21mm bolts. It would be difficult to lever down on the roll bar as in one video. Plus be aware the two 21mm bolts are extremely tight.
Torque wrench settings
Anti roll bar (stabiliser connecting rod) to shock absorber nut 18mm (75Nm)
Lower arm (wishbone) pinch bolt 18mm bolt and 18mm nut (87Nm)
Rear lower arm to subframe bush bolt 18mm (97Nm)
Mid lower arm to subframe two 21mm bolts (171Nm)
The quick vid
How to change an independent wheel suspension front control arm on NISSAN QASHQAI 1 TUTORIAL
https://club.autodoc.co.uk/manuals/how- ... uide-12976
More detailed vid
How to change front suspension arm on NISSAN QASHQAI (J10, NJ10) [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]
https://club.autodoc.co.uk/manuals/how- ... uide-26779
Failed MOT on lower arm - J10
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QashqaiSilver
- Posts: 275
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2022 10:35 pm
- Qashqai Model: Mk.1 Qashqai - J10 (2006–2013)
J10, 2008, 1.6 petrol, Acenta
Hi, interesting to note the difference between the torque values you give and on the Autodoc video.
What source did you get your figures from?
Did you use new bolts/ nuts and if so, do you have the part numbers handy?
Cheers
What source did you get your figures from?
Did you use new bolts/ nuts and if so, do you have the part numbers handy?
Cheers
2017 Qashqai n-connecta J11b 1.6dci
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QashqaiSilver
- Posts: 275
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2022 10:35 pm
- Qashqai Model: Mk.1 Qashqai - J10 (2006–2013)
I did not use new bolts and nuts. I had used Nissan Technical data manual they have for the J10
J10, 2008, 1.6 petrol, Acenta
I wonder where Autodoc got their torque values from then? They are wildly different to Nissan and I would think that 171nm would be hard to achieve unless you are Arnold Swarznegger!
Could you tell me where you got the Nissan Tech manual from as I could do with a copy?
Could you tell me where you got the Nissan Tech manual from as I could do with a copy?
2017 Qashqai n-connecta J11b 1.6dci
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QashqaiSilver
- Posts: 275
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2022 10:35 pm
- Qashqai Model: Mk.1 Qashqai - J10 (2006–2013)
I got it online.
It is still free and titled Nissan Qashqai 2007-2010 Factory Service Manual
I found still it at
https://procarmanuals.com/pdf-online-ni ... ce-manual/
Once on the site, it would download in a mini browser window, then the grey bar at the bottom of it, it would have a picture of a page and arrow pointing down, Click that to download it.
It is still free and titled Nissan Qashqai 2007-2010 Factory Service Manual
I found still it at
https://procarmanuals.com/pdf-online-ni ... ce-manual/
Once on the site, it would download in a mini browser window, then the grey bar at the bottom of it, it would have a picture of a page and arrow pointing down, Click that to download it.
J10, 2008, 1.6 petrol, Acenta
It doesn't want to download for some reason. Maybe I have a certain anti virus that stops it?
Done the job anyway, using Autodocs values for now, but I did notice that the pinch bolt was not original. This control arm has been replaced before about 4 years ago at a garage as it too failed its MOT on it. They have used an 8.8 tensile bolt, not a 10.9 bolt. Not sure why they swapped it.
Looking for the correct bolt is a pain, but seems that Nissan sell it for £7.50 and the nut for £2.79, +VAT. They won't give me the part number though.
They would not confirm if the bolts are 'one time use' only, but as I can find no mention of 'torque to yield or 'angle to yield', I'm assuming they are not.
Did you have any issues putting the two front bush bolts back in? They were stuck hard in there and only my weedy impact wrench got them out. The nut for them is a captive nut, in the frame, but doesn't seem to be actually welded to the frame as there was some rattling and movement if I wiggled the bolt when it started to bite as I was putting it back in.
Dd you notice the same?
Done the job anyway, using Autodocs values for now, but I did notice that the pinch bolt was not original. This control arm has been replaced before about 4 years ago at a garage as it too failed its MOT on it. They have used an 8.8 tensile bolt, not a 10.9 bolt. Not sure why they swapped it.
Looking for the correct bolt is a pain, but seems that Nissan sell it for £7.50 and the nut for £2.79, +VAT. They won't give me the part number though.
They would not confirm if the bolts are 'one time use' only, but as I can find no mention of 'torque to yield or 'angle to yield', I'm assuming they are not.
Did you have any issues putting the two front bush bolts back in? They were stuck hard in there and only my weedy impact wrench got them out. The nut for them is a captive nut, in the frame, but doesn't seem to be actually welded to the frame as there was some rattling and movement if I wiggled the bolt when it started to bite as I was putting it back in.
Dd you notice the same?
2017 Qashqai n-connecta J11b 1.6dci
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QashqaiSilver
- Posts: 275
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2022 10:35 pm
- Qashqai Model: Mk.1 Qashqai - J10 (2006–2013)
I am struggling to remember it all. It was a little difficult doing the two top bolts. Think I used a UJ type extension on it. I have pasted a bit below. They call the lower arm "transverse link"Exjag wrote: ↑Thu Mar 09, 2023 2:55 pm It doesn't want to download for some reason. Maybe I have a certain anti virus that stops it?
Done the job anyway, using Autodocs values for now, but I did notice that the pinch bolt was not original. This control arm has been replaced before about 4 years ago at a garage as it too failed its MOT on it. They have used an 8.8 tensile bolt, not a 10.9 bolt. Not sure why they swapped it.
Looking for the correct bolt is a pain, but seems that Nissan sell it for £7.50 and the nut for £2.79, +VAT. They won't give me the part number though.
They would not confirm if the bolts are 'one time use' only, but as I can find no mention of 'torque to yield or 'angle to yield', I'm assuming they are not.
Did you have any issues putting the two front bush bolts back in? They were stuck hard in there and only my weedy impact wrench got them out. The nut for them is a captive nut, in the frame, but doesn't seem to be actually welded to the frame as there was some rattling and movement if I wiggled the bolt when it started to bite as I was putting it back in.
Dd you notice the same?
REMOVAL
1. Remove tires from vehicle.
2. Remove transverse link from steering knuckle.
3. Remove transverse link from suspension member.
NOTE:
Transverse link cannot be pulled out because the mounting bolt
( ) of transverse link at the rear of the mounting area located
on the front side of vehicle hits against the stabilizer bar. Therefore,
get stabilizer bar out of the way to remove the transverse
link.
Note the following, and install in the reverse order of removal.
• Perform final tightening of bolts and nuts at the front suspension member, under unladen conditions with
tires on level ground.
4. Coil spring 5. Lower rubber seat 6. Strut
7. Cap 8. Steering knuckle 9. Stabilizer connecting rod
10. Stabilizer clamp 11. Stabilizer bushing 12. Stabilizer bar
13. Front suspension member 14. Rebound stopper insulator 15. Transverse link
16. Rebound stopper 17. Front suspension member stay
Refer to GI-4, "Components" for symbols in the figure.
J10, 2008, 1.6 petrol, Acenta
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QashqaiSilver
- Posts: 275
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2022 10:35 pm
- Qashqai Model: Mk.1 Qashqai - J10 (2006–2013)
54459EN00D there are two of these that go into the subframe from lower arm (the heavy torque ones, re-useable.
54459EN00E single bolt between rear bush and subrame.
40178JG00B bolt that should be replaced on the wheel hub carrier link to lower arm which I think you tried to get from dealer the nut should be 40262N
J10, 2008, 1.6 petrol, Acenta
Excellent, thanks.
Still can't believe those torque figures are so different to Autodoc, I better get out and check mine. I don't think that Autodoc are to be trusted , but their videos are useful.
(The 21mm bolts, apparently, are in a captive 'cage' most likely originally epoxed in place. As these bolts have been out before at a garage, they probably used an air socket on them which may well have broken the epoxy but left the nuts in place. Similar method of fixing exist on VWs and some big Ford pick ups, looking at the number of reported issues caused when changing suspension parts on them.)
Still can't believe those torque figures are so different to Autodoc, I better get out and check mine. I don't think that Autodoc are to be trusted , but their videos are useful.
(The 21mm bolts, apparently, are in a captive 'cage' most likely originally epoxed in place. As these bolts have been out before at a garage, they probably used an air socket on them which may well have broken the epoxy but left the nuts in place. Similar method of fixing exist on VWs and some big Ford pick ups, looking at the number of reported issues caused when changing suspension parts on them.)
2017 Qashqai n-connecta J11b 1.6dci
