Hi,
I have a very intermittent issue with my 2015 Qashqai 1.6 DHCi.
The issue is the car sometimes doesn't start, there is no common theme as to when and why it doesn't start. For example, I could have made multiple trips on the same day but that evening it won't start, it could be first thing in the morning it doesn't start, the weather could be hot or cold and it doesn't start and the car could be fine for weeks and then randomly it doesn't start.
See video - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZBb786 ... HOJyu/view
As you can see I press the start button and after a short while after the ignition comes on I get a "start/stop auto system fault" error message in the dash screen behind the steering wheel.
The car has had a new car battery installed and the batteries in the key fob have been changed too. The issue was present before and after these batteries were installed.
Any help will be much appreciated.
Many Thanks
Andy
Start/Stop Auto System Fault, Car doesn't start (2015 J11 1.6 DHCI)
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- Posts: 336
- Joined: Sat Feb 23, 2019 7:27 am
- Qashqai Model: Mk.3 Qashqai - J12 (2021+) New Model
Ground cable on to gearbox common on these
Get yourself a jumper lead red or black doesnt matter,,, black one if it makes you feel more comfortable and when the concern is happening put one side on battery NEGATIVE and the other onto a good metal ground on the engine if it now cranks and starts its the ground cable .. usually corrosion on the connection onto the box
Get yourself a jumper lead red or black doesnt matter,,, black one if it makes you feel more comfortable and when the concern is happening put one side on battery NEGATIVE and the other onto a good metal ground on the engine if it now cranks and starts its the ground cable .. usually corrosion on the connection onto the box
I've got the same issue with 2015 1.6 Tekna. RAC suggested bump start after checking the battery (as the thought was the starter motor) which got it working where I drove it to my local garage but the Starter Motor is fine and they're a bit confused. Have you got a fix yet?
- Gel
- Posts: 3265
- Joined: Thu May 22, 2014 12:02 pm
- Location: Thames Valley UK
- Qashqai Model: Mk.2 Qashqai - J11 (2013–2017)
I wouldn't be concerned about; just causes a lot more wear on certain engine components.
2014-19 J11A-14 1.5dci Ink Blue Tekna owner; now departed for a Mazda CX-5 GT Sport Nav, 2.0L Petrol
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- Posts: 4
- Joined: Thu Jan 13, 2022 4:48 pm
- Qashqai Model: Mk.2 Qashqai - J11 (2013–2017)
Hi all, I had this problem just before Christmas I own at 65 qashqai also. Only done 23000 on the clock. It kept coming up with system fault and chassis control fault on the dash and then it would trigger the amber engine light to come on. It would drive fine and then would seem like it would slip into gear bearing in mind this is a auto transmission. And then it would just cut out and wouldn't move at all. But then if I turned the engine off for 30mins and locked the cat 9 times out of 10 it would start no problem and then drive for a while and do it all again. Mechanics local to me wasnt sure what the problem was and what was causing it. They advised for me to let Nissan look at it. So the day after I took it to Nissan who charged me £40 for them to turn round and said the gear box is faulty and needs to be replaced!!! Then the shocking figure of £13500 for them to replace it. I love my car so much and it's currently stuck on my drive as I can not afford to fix it.
- gloucester
- Posts: 5196
- Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2016 7:04 am
- Location: Gloucestershire, England
- Qashqai Model: Mk.2 Qashqai - J11 (2013–2017)
He hasn't posted since - I suggest you send him a PM
(2015 Nissan Qashqai Tekna DIG-T 1.2 sold 15/6/18) ~ 2018 Suzuki Ignis SZ5 - 2018 Yamaha MT-07 ~ (2024 Volvo EX30 ordered)
- calnorth
- Posts: 2719
- Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2019 2:01 pm
- Qashqai Model: Mk.2 Qashqai Facelift - J11b (2017–2021)
I should say that what follows is not an answer....just a description of the territory we are in regarding the subject matter.
The issue here is the electrical status of a number of components in the pre conditions for Starter Motor Activation. See diagrams below. There are approx 3 pre conditions that if correct enable the Starter Motor to turn. Conditions differ slightly where Auto or Manual Gear Box is fitted.
The system needs a thorough check electrically. Its not an easy diagnosis if this system is not understood by mechanics. This kind of fault ranges from what @lewisbryant says above and any number of wiring, relay and states of BCM/IPDM and the ECU related functions.
This system is managed by the ECU and will put up the STOP/START failure message where it detects a failed part of the Pre Starting Conditions. I'd expect DTCs (error codes) to be present? However, Diagnostics doesn't list any. Diagnosis is a very long procedural test of all elements in the Starting system chain.
Note:
At the point of engine cranking the Battery supply is boosted for the vehicles electrics to work correctly. That is performed by a DC/DC Converter separate to Starter Motor powering.. This boost requirement demonstrates a problem where a lot of electronics controls the car. Battery volts will dramatically drop on Starter turn over, thus causing a major error for electrical engine control (ECU) at the very point of starting if Batt volts not raised (boosted). A System Fault no less...major.
...................................
Functions of the Various Parts (these items must be working correctly)
The issue here is the electrical status of a number of components in the pre conditions for Starter Motor Activation. See diagrams below. There are approx 3 pre conditions that if correct enable the Starter Motor to turn. Conditions differ slightly where Auto or Manual Gear Box is fitted.
The system needs a thorough check electrically. Its not an easy diagnosis if this system is not understood by mechanics. This kind of fault ranges from what @lewisbryant says above and any number of wiring, relay and states of BCM/IPDM and the ECU related functions.
This system is managed by the ECU and will put up the STOP/START failure message where it detects a failed part of the Pre Starting Conditions. I'd expect DTCs (error codes) to be present? However, Diagnostics doesn't list any. Diagnosis is a very long procedural test of all elements in the Starting system chain.
Note:
At the point of engine cranking the Battery supply is boosted for the vehicles electrics to work correctly. That is performed by a DC/DC Converter separate to Starter Motor powering.. This boost requirement demonstrates a problem where a lot of electronics controls the car. Battery volts will dramatically drop on Starter turn over, thus causing a major error for electrical engine control (ECU) at the very point of starting if Batt volts not raised (boosted). A System Fault no less...major.
...................................
Functions of the Various Parts (these items must be working correctly)
Mk2 Qashqai Facelift - J11b (2017–and onward)
1.6 Dig-T N-Connecta
1.6 Dig-T N-Connecta
I just wanted to give an update on the issue i had with my vehicle that was similar to the OP in the hope it will help someone else out with the same issue. I have a 1.6 Diesel 2015 Qashqai that sometimes would not start, I had the AA out multiple times to get me going and eventually they diagnosed it as a faulty alternator, however after getting the alternator changed it still had the same issue so the garage fitted my old alternator back and suggested I take it to an auto electrician.
I am an Electrical engineer myself so armed with my multimeter and volt meter attached to the cigarette lighter I monitored the voltage whilst driving, one particular morning I noticed 12.2V on the volt meter so I lifted the bonnet and checked voltage between the alternator +ve output and the battery negative, I had 12.2V, however between the alternator and the engine body (-ve) I had 14.4V, BINGO! I realised I had a bad earth between the engine and the battery. The cable that leads from the battery negative terminal to the engine sits on a bracket and the bracket was really loose (hence the bad earth), however as its so hard to get at I instead strapped 2 x tri rated 10mm cables from the Battery to the Engine block and touch wood I have not had an issue since. I hope this is useful to someone.
I am an Electrical engineer myself so armed with my multimeter and volt meter attached to the cigarette lighter I monitored the voltage whilst driving, one particular morning I noticed 12.2V on the volt meter so I lifted the bonnet and checked voltage between the alternator +ve output and the battery negative, I had 12.2V, however between the alternator and the engine body (-ve) I had 14.4V, BINGO! I realised I had a bad earth between the engine and the battery. The cable that leads from the battery negative terminal to the engine sits on a bracket and the bracket was really loose (hence the bad earth), however as its so hard to get at I instead strapped 2 x tri rated 10mm cables from the Battery to the Engine block and touch wood I have not had an issue since. I hope this is useful to someone.