J11 Battery charging system problem

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rongil
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Post by rongil »

I noticed a slight drop I voltage between locked and unlocked. Since my battery failure I have always locked the car. A morning check shows V12.2 but I have not left it unlocked overnight for comparison

F1 Bob
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Post by F1 Bob »

I have had a Ring battery meter plugged into the lighter socket for a few days now and this shows a regular pattern as follows.

Voltage reading after overnight stop is 12.2 volts before starting.
12.8 volts on idle and 12.9 to 13.5 volts while running at around 1700 rpm.
This increases to 14.4 volts while decelerating, braking or on overrun which I imagine is the system harvesting energy into the battery.
Start stop works nearly all the time and quite often straight off from an overnight stop so this seems to indicate that the system is happy with the condition and level of charge on the battery. The indicator light on the battery also shows green.
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duncho
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Post by duncho »

F1 Bob: If you always had Voltage no lower than 12.8V while engine was running, it's OK, but not perfect. 13.5V would be the best, but seems it was designed this way. Any drop below 12.6V is fundamental lack of design.
QQ does not use recuperation to charge the battery, voltage of 14.4V is increased by IPDM if batrery is drained more than healthy. Recuperation would require AGM batteries which are more expensive than EFB batteries used in QQ.

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F1 Bob
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Post by F1 Bob »

Thanks Duncho and will keep checking. It seems odd that the charge will go to 14.4v but the stop-start will kick in straight off from a cold start. I have a couple of long runs (well long for us) of 180 miles to make over the next week and will see what, if anything, this does.
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rongil
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Post by rongil »

Left car all night unlocked. Battery voltage ok at v12.2 in morning. Think my problem was tail gate not properly shut. This leaves the boot light on with potential to drain battery
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Post by duncho »

It is OK if voltage goes up to 14.4V, most of older cars just keep constant voltage at this level. It has certain disadvantages though. Idea of variable voltage is great idea, but in my case just doesn't work as it should.
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johnbull
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Post by johnbull »

My boot light goes off if tailgate left open for an extended period
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298
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Post by 298 »

montimar wrote:My battery (FIAMM) failed to turn the engine over a couple of days ago and I had to call out the RAC to start the car. Stop/Start fail also indicated.
The RAC said the battery was shot and required replacement. The Nissan service centre thought otherwise and kept the battery a couple of days using a smart charger and reported the battery was now OK and refitted it on the car.
They could not explain why the battery failed in the first place and I now have no faith in the battery not letting me down again.
My driving profile is long runs and I always turn off the Stop/Start so the battery has an easy life.
Any ideas on how to proceed with getting the battery replaced under warranty?
That's pretty much what happened to me, except the dealer diagnosed a faulty battery and replaced it in a day. I was told by the girl on the service desk that they are usually ok after a charge, so told them that's what I'd done and let them decide. I'd done a 160 mile round trip after having it jump started and at the end the voltage when running was 12.6v, 36 hours later it was down to 12.0v and the car struggled to start.

I reckon the charging system thinks the battery is fine and at 100%, so limits the voltage so as not to overcharge it, but the battery then falls off when parked.
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Wheelie Bealie
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Post by Wheelie Bealie »

My car died at the weekend, usual errors came up (start/stop, FCW, LDW etc etc) anyway just left it there (as it was on my Mums drive) and we had to go out (we took the van instead - classy eh!), anyway, as the car was 'nose in' I couldn't get a vehicle close enough to jump start it, couldn't realease the handbrake to move it (is there an emergency release for the handbrake?) and if I could the car was parked on loose surface that the tyres had 'bedded in' on so even with my 6'1" 20 stone ex rugby player frame there was no way I was going to even attempt to scrum down with it to try and move it!

Anyway, I came to work in my van yesterday and called out the RAC to pick the car up and take it to the dealer, long story short, RAC jump starts the car and as they've got it working refuse to take it to the dealer (even though I explained to them when I called that I think it's a faulty battery). They suggested to my Mum (I was still at work) that I take it for a good 1/2 hour drive to recharge the battery, unfrotunatly she didn't tell them that I drive a 40 mile trip to work and then back again each day in it so it should be in good condition. Got home last night (about 8 hours after they jumped it) and lo and behold it wouldn't start, managed to borrow a couple of sets of jump leads and daisy chain them between the cars (not the best thing, but needs must!) and I managed to get the car started, drove it straight to Nissan (Fish Bros, Swindon) and they have diagnosed a duff battery, new one being fitted in the morning under warranty when it arrives in stock.

I do recall reading there was a batch of faulty batteries on the early J11's, suspect mine is one of them but due to the motorway mileage I do everyday I probably prolonged the life of it as opposed to killing it pretty quickly with lots of short stop/start town journeys.

I suppse the lesson learnt is to be mindful where you park your car should the handbrake ever become 'locked on' due to a power malfunction.
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fat controller
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Post by fat controller »

Don't know if this is of interest or not, but after reading through this thread, I thought I would check out battery prices on Eurocarparts -- and every battery they sell that is stated to be compatible is an AGM battery. Does this suggest that there really should be an AGM battery fitted for the sake of reliability?
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